Few, if any countries have a more violent war torn history than Colombia. From the time the first conquistadors arrived in 1499 there has barely been a time of peace and stability in Colombia. There is plenty of literature on the Spanish colonisation and the Simon Bolivar led fight for independence, gained in 1819. Civil wars raged through the 1800's as different ideologies fought for the future of the country, upwards of 100,000 were killed in the war of a thousand days which spanned the dawn of the 20th century. A period of calm ended in 1948 with the beginning of La Violencia which ultimately ended in the deaths of over 300,000 people as liberals and conservatives continued the battle for control. A power sharing agreement controlled the political debate, for a country with a history so steeped in violence debate it is not surprising that this led to guerilla groups such as FARC gaining support and power as they refused to allow the mainstream the control they sought. The country's violent history further deteriorated in the 70's and 80's as the drug cartells became the most powerful and richest organisations in the country. Headed first by Medellin based Pablo Escobar, and after his death in 93 the Cali based cartels tens of thousands were killed in the battle for the trafficking trade. During this time Medellin and Cali had the highest murder rates on earth. The drug trade still exists but the cartells are now broken, FARC are at the political table, the economy is booming and a period of long overdue calm seems a distinct possibility.
Few, if any countries have a more violent war torn history than Colombia. From the time the first conquistadors arrived in 1499 there has barely been a time of peace and stability in Colombia. There is plenty of literature on the Spanish colonisation and the Simon Bolivar led fight for independence, gained in 1819. Civil wars raged through the 1800's as different ideologies fought for the future of the country, upwards of 100,000 were killed in the war of a thousand days which spanned the dawn of the 20th century. A period of calm ended in 1948 with the beginning of La Violencia which ultimately ended in the deaths of over 300,000 people as liberals and conservatives continued the battle for control. A power sharing agreement controlled the political debate, for a country with a history so steeped in violence debate it is not surprising that this led to guerilla groups such as FARC gaining support and power as they refused to allow the mainstream the control they sought. The country's violent history further deteriorated in the 70's and 80's as the drug cartells became the most powerful and richest organisations in the country. Headed first by Medellin based Pablo Escobar, and after his death in 93 the Cali based cartels tens of thousands were killed in the battle for the trafficking trade. During this time Medellin and Cali had the highest murder rates on earth. The drug trade still exists but the cartells are now broken, FARC are at the political table, the economy is booming and a period of long overdue calm seems a distinct possibility.
With such a tragic history I am intrigued to have been hearing stories over the last few years of Colombia being the new kid on the block of best countries to visit and find out.Travellers we've met all rave about what a wonderful place to visit. What's changed? I can't wait to find out.
 |
| Bolivar Square, Bogota |
Arriving in Bogota's modern airport where even the baggage claim area is bright and airy I felt I was pulling for breath in the high altitude air straight away. It felt fresh and good. Arriving in a country where even the smallest transactions are measured in 000's always takes some getting your head around but the 35,000 COP taxi fare to La Calandaria seemed good value.
Sayta Hostel where we stayed is at the end of La Calandaria, the old part of Bogota city, home to most of the main tourist sites and centre of the main backpacker scene. We were greeted at Sayta Hostel with a warm welcome and hot coffee. An early afternoon check in gave us time to go for a walk and get our bearings and a feel for the area. We both felt Bogota had more of an Andea influence than we expected, feeling more like Lima than the cities of Brazil or Argentina, the cool thin air added to the different ambiance of the city, it felt good. Having had a nightmare journey to Bogota involving a 24 hour delay over almost two nights at Brasilia airport we were ready for a feed and a sleep. We settled in to one of the areas many cafes and ordered Ajiaco a chicken and potato soup served with rice and sour cream, which is one of the areas speciallities. It was just the job before we crashed onto a deep sleep.
Breakfast will be one of the other adjustments of arriving in Colombia, after the sumptuous breakfasts included in the room price in Brazil breakfast is rarely included in Colombia and where it is bread, jam and coffee is the staple. I started chatting to Eva and Kevin an Irish - Australian couple who were early arrivals on the overnight bus from San Gil our next intended destination. We'd end up spending more time with them over the next few days, I straight away knew they would be great fun.
We visited the Museo de Oro first, considered the biggest and best gold museum on the continent it covers displays of jewelery and statues as well as covering history of discovery and development of metallurgy. There is an interesting display on the role of shamen and the use of gold in their rituals.
 |
| Anthro - Zoomorphic - Breastplate |
After a traditional Almuerza lunch of fish soup and fried Piranha we visited the police museum. Free to enter but seemingly only available to tour with a police officer as a guide, there is an interesting history of the development of the Colombian police force, created by the same person who created the inaugural police force in France. Further information on the evolutin of police eligebility rules and training programmes are also in place. Next our guide took us through a kind of hit parade of the most dangerous criminals with their capture or despatch date, clearly a sense of pride for the force.
There is, of course, a room dedicated to the tracking down and shooting of Pablo Escobar, the most satisfting result for the force. Artifacts include gold encrusted pistols use by his top henchmen, his nephew's gold encrusted Harley Davidson and more macarbrely the jacket Escobar was wearing when he was shot and a bloodstained tile from the rooftop where he fell. Escobar shot first, apparently.
For me the most interesting exhibit was a satelite map of Medellin showing the sites of the last seven phone calls Escobar made as the police narrowed down his location. We felt a little rushed. through and the guide was reluctant to allow us more time to walk freely through so I'd say it is worth a look but not overwhelming.
 |
| Pablo Escobar's jacket |
 |
| Pablo Escobar's Harley Davidson |
For me the most interesting exhibit was a satelite map of Medellin showing the sites of the last seven phone calls Escobar made as the police narrowed down his location. We felt a little rushed. through and the guide was reluctant to allow us more time to walk freely through so I'd say it is worth a look but not overwhelming.
Carrera 7, one of Bogota's main thoroughfares is closed to traffic and creates an area for traders, food stalls and entertainers to gather, creating a long open boulevard busy with downtown workers as well as tourists. As part of this set up there are dedicated cycle. lanes of which Bogota has over 350 killometres. As part of one of the most progressive forward thinking transport infrastructures in the world these lanes are seperated from traffic, not just a line on the road. A further word on transport Bogota has, as Eva put it, effectively created a tram system without laying down tracks, they have built vast dedicated bus lanes running in all directions down which huge buses travel at regular frequency enabling passengers to zoom across town with no congestion issues. Good work.
At this point we stumbled on the Guinea Pig gambling. A slightly surreal experience where a fully miked up 'trainer' has a selection of guinea pigs several yards from twenty upturned bowls each with a small entrance. The trainer encourages the audience to place money on the bowls in return for which they take a slice of the winnings should a guinea pig select your bowl, as far as I could tell the bigger your stake the larger your share of the takngs. Unfortunately I never got the chance to confirm this despite one runner giving my bowl a sniff on it's way past.
Next on the list was the Torre Colpatria, Bogota's tallest tower block allows access to it's roof terrace affording great views over this vast (7.5 million pop) city. With mountains to the east and south and the flat plains to the north and west the scenery changes dramatically but the city stretches in front of you almost as far as across the plains. The most noticable building below is the bullring with it's moorish facade standing out amongst the rest of the surrounding architecture. Apparently no bull fights have been held for the last couple of years as public opinion against the sport grows.
.jpg) |
| Santamaria Bullring |
Sunday brought World Cup final day so all activities were timed for the 2pm local time kick off. It was a good day to climb Mount Monserrate, a 1500 stone step climb to a church up above the city, the weather, as it seems is typical of Bogota was cool with spells of rain blowing through meaning views were not guaranteed. The walk is a traditional weekend family activity in Bogota so these are the advised times to go rather than midweek when it can be very quiet. We took the opportunity to take on board some coca tea at the bottom, apparently it helps with any ill effects of altitude. Though there are plenty of stalls selling drinks and snacks on the way. I found the climb tougher than I normally would, certainly finding myself slightly short of breathe due to the altitude. It is a great walk with plenty of plenty of places to stop on the way if you need a rest and to take in the ever expanding views of Bogota below. At the top the Monseratte church was holding mass which was an obvious attraction for many Colombians making the journey.
 |
| After the climb up Mount Monseratte, tired, wet and happy. |
 |
| Joined by Eva, Kevin and some random excited Colombians |
Religious buildings and services often provide some of the best photo opportunities though I am always unsure of the etiquete regarding taking pictures. So many religious buildings are beautifully architecturally designed and decorated structures and gatherings are some of the most colourful yet I always feel intrusive taking pictures, despite plenty of others normally also doing so. I would be interested to know peoples thoughts on this.
After a more relaxing walk down we sought out a small local restaurant for the traditional Colombian Almuzera of soup and a main dish of meat, rice potato and normally fried banana or plantian. We then found a bar to watch the world cup final over a few beers. A great game with both teams coming out trying to win it. Argentina pushed them well but Germany proved worthy winners, being consistently the best team through the tournament. A fitting end to a great tournament.
Our last day in Bogota we decided to hang around La Calandaria and to visit the Museo Botero. Fernando Botero, one of Colombia's best known artists had a penchant for sculpting and painting 'fat' objects, fat people, fat fruit, fat musical instruments and fat animals. He donated a collection of his own works as well as some internationally renowned artists such as Degas, Picasso, Dali and Monet.
The museum itself is set in an old colonial house with airy balconies over looking shady courtyards. I'd recommend it as a must on any to do list for Bogota.
 |
| Fernando Botero's Mona Lisa |
 |
| Fernando Botero's Caballo |
The museum itself is set in an old colonial house with airy balconies over looking shady courtyards. I'd recommend it as a must on any to do list for Bogota.
 |
| Museo Botero |
Leaving Bogota we were ready to move on but it is an enchanting city which is clearly on the rise, I could easily have spent more time in. A wonderful introduction to Colombia which left me more excited than ever about what the country has to offer.
No comments:
Post a Comment