Bonito, not so bonito in the rain

Bonito has a reputation for being the hub of eco tourism in Brazil. The area is famed for crystal clear waters and a huge variety of fish making for spectacular snorkeling. The more adventurous (and those able to stretch the budget) can rappel into big sink holes for amazing diving. As an attempt to preserve the water clarity sun block and mosquito repellent are not permitted when entering the water on some activities, wetsuits are provided to offer protection and warmth. The trip to Bonito on Vanzella stretched from the promised three hours to four and a half, not a major drama but the first of a number of incidents where Gil from Pantanal Discovery's smooth sales patter didn't quite get borne out in reality. Bonito, described in the guide book as tiny was larger than we expected, not a big place but more than a one street town. We checked into Papaya Hostel, a new kid on the block and one which is bound to raise the bar for budget travel in the area, Jenny and Carlos have done a great job with the set up. Jenny set up a tour of Rio da Prata, which has the best snorkeling for the following morning but warned us it wouldn't be at it's best due to high rainfall creating muddy run off into the water over the last few days.

We jumped straight on the hostel bikes (small hire fee) and headed out of town for the Balneario Municipal, a natural swimming hole in one of the rivers where big schools of Piraputangas gather. On arriving we were disappointed as the murky water looked nothing like on the posters. Clear azure waters with people frolicking in the sun were replaced with River Thames brown waters with people unsure whether to dip a toe in.

Jumping in at the furthest upstream point I was straight away surprised by the strength of the current, though the speed is patchy and slows down after the main bend so it is very safe. The size and quantity of fish was good, though with visibility of only a metre certainly not what I'd come for. The biggest disappointment was that most of the fish were gathered within a metre of shore as people were buying food at the entrance and throwing in bag after bag to attract the fish for photo opportunities. This is certainly not a natural experience and not eco friendly in anyway. 

Encouraging mass feeding is a big black mark for the eco reputation in my book and should be stopped. After our afternoon arrival dusk was drawing in as we cycled back to town which made the ride back different and enjoyable though I wouldn't have wanted to be much later. On arriving back at the hostel Jenny gave us the bad news that the Rio da Prata trip was cancelled due to the water quality, which, given this was our reason for coming was a bit of a blow. We were offered an alternative of snorkeling the Sucuri which doesn't have the same number of species or size of fish but usually retains better water quality in poor weather. It seemed the options were to write Bonito off completely or take a chance on this and something seemed better than nothing. Jenny, again made all the arrangements and we were set for the following afternoon.

Heading to a bar for a drink seemed the sensible option at this point. We settled on Taboa a cool looking bar covered inside and out with graffiti, every surface was marked with dates and names of people who had passed through, I couldn't help wondering if someone I knew or had crossed paths with had left their mark there. The plan to head to a quality fish restaurant was abandoned after the first Capiraniha.

 I'd first heard of Capiraniha's when my brother visited Salvador as a stopover when sailing Clipper Ventures round the world yacht race. The tales of Victoria Clipper had me spellbound and with Brazil always on my list of places to visit, hearing the stories of their first major stop over was fascinating. Having our World Cup tickets in Salvador will be like tying another knot of family connection, I can't wait to see the harbour where the Clipper Ventures crews were based.

 Another Capiraniha left us quite happy, could it have been possible they were getting stronger? The morning. was spent catching up on a few bits and pieces, wandering round Bonito we couldn't resist taking a picture of the town fountain complete with statue of giant fish, New Zealand and Australian towns love having statues of large local items of interest in a prominent positions. The capitals of Europe can keep their victorious generals on horse back, their Kings and their Queens, the cities of South America can keep their liberators, the Big Fruit of Cromwell and Giant Ohakune Carrot do it for me every time!

 Typical. As the time for our trip approached the storm clouds opened, the heavens opened and lightening filled the air. We drove the 16 k to Rio Succuri in pouring rain, watching the gulleys on the side of the road fill with orange red run off. We felt our chances of crystal clear waters were slim to none. Arriving at the river side base we were treated to an Armadillo walking across the lawns, the first we had seen. We waited for a while for the previous trip to return then were kitted out and headed off to the boats. The Rio Sucuri trip differs significantly from Rio da Prata, firstly it is an hour, 1k snorkel rather than a 3k two and a half hour snorkel. An hour is a long time in fresh water which cools the body much faster than salt water, two hours plus is a very long time. Also Sucurri begins with a trip in canoes which provide great views of fish and bird life as you make your way upstream. Rio da Prata begins with a 45 minute walk making it a much longer trip. The paddle through close jungle was fantastic, big herons on the river banks and big weed beds floating in the stream of water made it feel like making your way through pristine jungle. The complete quiet except for the lap of the water and the chatter of the birds brought a hush over us all.

We reached a moored wooden platform, climbed out of the boat and one by one slipped into the water. The water was clear and immediately abundant in large fish. Swimming is forbidden along with touching the bottom, again in order to preserve water clarity. Gently floating down the river, allowing small movements to move closer or further away from the banks and in and out of the current was a first for me. Other than taking my PADI diving course in Capernwray in Lancashire all my snorkeling has been in salt water. Allowing yourself to drift amongst the reeds (the larger fish are under weed and tree branches on the water's edge) was spectacular also giving the best view of tiny electric blue and luminous red fish nearer the surface.

Given the advice that Rio Sucuri was less spectacular and the run off from the rain I was impressed with clarity and viewing. I would say if you are not as confident in the water an hour is enough and the boat ride is beautiful making this an excellent alternative to it's, supposedly more spectacular cousin.

Back at the hostel a hot shower was most welcome especially when followed immediately by a Capiranhia. It was BBQ night at Papaya Hostel, Rafael, Carlos' brother played host and kept us topped up with drink and fantastic BBQ meat, chicken, steak and sausage. As well as us he hostel was playing host to guests from Holland, Germany, Israel, Switzerland and Egypt and Argentina. A great opportunity to mix with different people and a perfect time for the Argentinian to add more languages in which he could say "You have beautiful eyes". A pick up artist maestro. There was some debate as to the value in my teaching him that all Aussie girls need to hear is "stick another prawn on the barbie" to make them go weak at the knees. So

Bonito had been good but not great, we hadn't realised how weather dependent it is so if you go, check in advance and be prepared to be flexible.