For the next couple of days we are staying on an estancia (cattle ranch) and it is all Judy Bailey's fault. For non Kiwis Judy Bailey is a former news reader and highly respected mother of the nation. A few years ago, our Judy took part in Intrepid Journeys where celebrities explore far flung places and visited Uruguay.Note to self, I said as she galavanted round the estancia on horseback, herding cattle, cleaning sheep of unwelcome pests and eating phenomenal steaks.
I'm not sure what I've let us in for but yes Judy, I blame you.
Tacuarembo Day 1
Yvytu Itaty
Remote barely begins to describe this place, Tacuarembo is apparently a city of 50,000 but this is spread across the whole district and it certainly doesn't give the impression of being that size when arriving at the bus terminal. Pedro was there to meet us along with another couple who were also staying. The hour trip to the estancia was largely on grass tracks across the pampa passing only the occasional farm building. For the last half hour there was not a building to be seen until Yvytu Itaty came into sight. We were greeted by Nahir and her mother Laura and given a tour before a sumptuous lunch.
An even greater welcome from Toro the farm Pitbull and the working cattle dogs was awaiting us.The dogs joined us at we want for a walk across the fields as Pedro saddled up the horses for an afternoon ride. Clear blue skys stretched to the horizon in all directions with barely a tree to break the line of sight as we head of to check on the cattle and move some to a new area.
One of the party had a particularly spirited horse which was very keen to break into a decent speed of trot, combine this with a particularly spirited tourist keen to push the boundaries and you have a dangerous combination. Pedro had to offer frequent instructions to slow down. The horses were incredibly tame and event the spirited one obeyed every command so there was nothing to worry a less experienced rider and it is a perfect ride for your first time on a horse. Pedro was the perfect guide pointing out any item of interest.
At times the only sounds were distant insects and the quiet creak of leather in sync with the horses motion, absolute bliss.
As we headed back after a near three hour ride dusk started drawing in and the temperature dropped quickly, soon more wildlife appeared and the cattle dogs were onto a rabbit and after a short chase soon had their evening feed.
Tea and torta (cake) awaited us back at the ranch. It was clear we were not going to go hungry on Nahir's watch.
Nahir, Paero and Laura were brilliant with helping the four of us us try out some Spanish and the phrase books were a constant companion which caused a lot of laughter all round. Our companions Ken (re named Carlitos to everybody's amusement) and Julie both giving it a good go with the Spanish.
We spent the evening around the fire sharing stories around the fire with Ken and Julie, from Chicago though Julie is originally from Nottingham, they seem to have a similar outlook on life to us and were great company. A late meal of pasta and the now ever present beef was delicious as was the accompanying Tacuarembo vino.
A combination of intense darkness, complete quiet and sheer relaxation meant we didn't make the predicted start time and the morning ride was delayed. On the agenda this morning, sheep herding. Oh yes, gaucho time. The more spirited member of the group was disappointed to have been relegated to a much less spirited horse, clear punishment for encouraging the antics of yesterday.
The ride first took us past original stone buildings from the 1800's where rifle slots can still be seen in the walls. Picking up the sheep it was amazing to watch Pedro use the dogs to guide them across the estancia as we brought them back towards a paddock at the ranch house. Having made it part of the way the flock decided not to enter a required gate but with a deft flick of the reigns I brought my horse round and cut the escape off. turning again to bring them in the right direction.
Gaucho spurs earned!
I continued 'helping' Pedro bring the sheep into the paddock. Julie added to the fun dubbing my new found talent 'mad skills', as if I needed more encouragement. Pedro's declaration that he couldn't have done it done it alone (as if!) left me in no doubt that a Gaucho life was for me.
More of Nahir's delicious soup and cake was just what was needed after our hard morning's ranching.
A couple of hours at the house playing with Toro, my new best friend and catching up on some writing and just taking in the serenity. All this serenity! Toro is a great dog, normally I will give as much space as possible to a pitbull whether on leash or not but this fella is so friendly and just wants attention, bruises on my thighs are plenty evidence of the power of these animals but equal evidence that not all temperament temperaments are as reputed.
An afternoon ride to take the sheep back out to pasture was needed and our more spirited rider was promoted back to the spirited horse. Joy! Clear evidence that the mad skills shown herding earlier in the day were needed to complete the job!
A gentle pace was taken, soaking in the atmosphere of following the sheep into the setting sun. Pure bliss. Taking time for Pedro to administer some antibiotic to sheep parts we won't talk about here.
The only disappointment was the continued lack of armadillo action.
Over dinner Pedro when announced that our final 'work' would be cow milking, four of the broadest grins you could imagine spread across our city dwelling faces.
Tacuarembo day 3
I rose early and went for a walk to enjoy the sunrise, a few minutes after setting out Ni heard the loud thump thump thump of an animal charging in my direction, I turned just in time to see and sidestep a leaping Toro! He'd have taken me straight off my feet if I hadn't moved. After giving him the fuss he was after we continued strolling side by side in the early morning sun, checking on the cows on the way. Man, dog, sunrise and acres of farmland, there is something complete about that.
Breakfast at the ranch to give us the strength for the task ahead was as usual a sweet affair including last night's left over rice pudding, one of Nahir's specialities.
All round success with the milking! Not nearly as hard as I worried it might be, I had been gripped by fear of being the only one to fail! We proudly added providing for the working animals to our list of successes as the farm puppies and of course Toro feasted on the bounty.
I can't help but reflex on a society where so many of us spend our lives indoors, in offices. I'm not judging it but it makes you think about the alternatives.
Only after adding a flag photo was it time to say our goodbyes. Quite emotional to be leaving people who had opened their home to us an made us feel so welcome. These are wonderful people and I already miss them.
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